1. Cashmere fiber content
A. The pure cashmere knitwear should contain 100% cashmere fiber. Considering the morphological variation of cashmere fiber and the factors of non-human mixed wool, the content should not exceed 5%. That is, when the content of Zhongshan cashmere fiber in the finished product reaches 95% or above, it can be regarded as 100% Cashmere and can be labeled as 100% cashmere.
B. Reduction of cashmere fiber content in blended products.
The allowable deviation of the percentage of cashmere fiber content in superior and first-class products of cashmere blended knitwear is 3%, that is, the reduction of cashmere fiber is not more than 3%. Other fiber components in cashmere blended knitwear are limited to animal fibers such as silk and wool, and natural plant fibers such as cotton and hemp.
2. Weight deviation rate of single piece
The unit of cashmere knitwear is piece. When processing each piece of cashmere knitwear, the unit weight is designed according to the factors such as yarn thickness and knitting density. After production and processing, the single weight of the finished product should not be less than 4% of the design weight.
3. Bursting strength
This indicator reflects the firmness of the product. The bursting strength index is related to yarn thickness and knitting density. The higher the bursting strength is, the longer the service life of the product is. Due to the fine fineness of cashmere fiber, the strength of cashmere knitwear is lower than that of ordinary wool knitwear. The bursting strength of combed cashmere knitwear is 225 kPa, and that of combed cashmere knitwear is 196kpa.
4. Weaving density coefficient
The knitting density coefficient only evaluates the superior and first-class products of the single-sided coarse combed knitted fabric. If this index is less than 1.0, it indicates that the knitting density design of the product is unqualified and the product is lax.
5. Pilling
During the actual wearing and washing process of cashmere knitwear, the fiber ends on the surface will be exposed, and there will be a lot of wool on the surface, which is called "fuzzing". If these trichomes can't fall off in time, they will entangle each other and be kneaded into many spherical particles, which are usually called "pilling". Pilling of cashmere knitwear will worsen the appearance quality of the products. Cashmere fiber is fine and soft and easy to pilling. This index is to control the pilling degree of cashmere knitwear. The pilling index is divided into five grades, the first grade is the worst, and the fifth grade is excellent. The first-class products shall not be lower than grade 3-4 and grade 1 shall not be lower than grade 3.
6. Dichloromethane soluble substances
Diazomethane soluble substance index refers to the determination of dichloromethane soluble substances in cashmere knitwear. It includes natural wool grease, oil and detergent added in production process, and substances used in special treatment such as softener, etc. If the oil added in the production process or softener used to increase the handle of the product is not properly controlled, this index will exceed the standard. If the index is too high, it will make the product smell and sticky. This requires the production enterprises to control the amount of oil and additives in the processing process. 5% and 1. 7% respectively.
7. Relaxation and contraction
Relaxation shrinkage refers to the size change of the product after washing under dynamic conditions. If the production enterprises can not strictly control the weaving and ironing process, the density of the products will be loose or the products with small specifications will be ironed into large-sized products, and the size of the products will be deformed greatly after washing, which will affect the wearing. After washing, the product should be controlled whether it shrinks or expands compared with the original size. + / - 5% for superior and first-class products.
8. Color fastness
Colorful cashmere knitwear is dyed. In the process of wearing these products, they will be affected by light, washing, ironing, perspiration, friction, chemicals and other external factors, which requires the color of dyed cashmere products to maintain a certain degree of fastness. Usually, we subject the dyed product to external action. The ability to maintain its original color is called "color fastness". The color fastness of cashmere knitwear is evaluated by five indexes. The higher the grade, the better the color fastness. Light fastness refers to the ability to determine the color of cashmere knitwear resistant to natural light. Dark color and light color fastness assessment standards are not the same.
Washability refers to the color fading degree of cashmere knitwear after being washed in special washing solution (imitating common washing solution). Perspiration resistance refers to the color fading degree of cashmere knitwear after being washed in the specially prepared sweat (imitated the sweat secreted by human body). Water resistance refers to the color fading degree of cashmere knitwear after washing with water. Abrasion resistance refers to the color fading degree of cashmere knitwear after rubbing.
See FZ / t73009-1997 "cashmere knitwear" standard for the specific grades of the above five assessment indexes.